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16 Things Every Kid Should Know about Dogs

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16 Things Every Kid Should Know about Dogs

January 19, 2011 Bloggies

Here are some basic facts that every child should know about dogs. Help your child by teaching these basic principles:

1. A wagging tail does NOT necessarily mean a friendly dog. Just because a dog wags his tail does not mean he is friendly. Tail movement is a communication signal in dogs and can mean friendliness, but in some dogs, especially when the tail motion is fast and upright, can mean aggression.

2. Don't approach a dog unless you are sure he is friendly and the owner's dog says it is okay.

3. Know how to approach a dog. Before you pet a dog, make sure he sees you. You may offer the back of your closed hand so that he can sniff it before you open your hand to touch him. But don't force your hand into his personal space – rather, allow him to approach your hand, that is, if he wants to.

4. Not every dog likes being petted on the head. Petting the top of his head can seem like a dominant, threatening action to some dogs.

5. If a dog comes to you, avoid direct eye contact and allow him to smell your hand. Don't make any fast motions. By avoiding eye contact, you are communicating that you are not an aggressor.

6. Know what to do if an aggressive dog approaches you. Don't look the dog in the eye. Be very calm and still, standing with your arms to your sides. Never run away.

7. Know what to do if a dog attacks. If a dog attacks you, give him something to chew on such as your coat, your book bag or your bike. Slowly back away until there is something between you and him such as a tree or bench. If a dog knocks you down, roll into a ball, protecting your face, and lie still until he goes away.

8. Stay away from aggressive dogs and don't go into a yard or near chains where dogs are tied.

9. Don't disturb dogs that are eating or sleeping. They may defend their food and bite you.  Sleeping dogs may be frightened away and act aggressive.

10. Dogs love to be loved. If you love them, they will love you back.

11. Dogs need good care, just like you do. They need good quality dog food to eat, plenty of fresh water, lots of opportunities to go to the bathroom, and exercise every day.

12. Dogs like routine. They like to be fed, walked and exercised at consistent times every day.

13. Dogs can keep secrets.

14. Dogs don't always know what is best for them. They may want to eat or chew on things that are dangerous and need your help to protect them. For example, some dogs don't know if something is poisonous so you need to help protect him or her.

15. Dogs can get sick just like people can. Common signs of illness include a pet that won't play, acts really tired, or won't eat. Other signs are vomiting and diarrhea. If you think your pet is sick, tell an adult so that they can evaluate the situation.

16. Most dogs are good and will love you no matter what. But you have to be smart and careful when around dogs that you don't know and don't know you.

Please Don't Chain Your Dog

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Please Don't Chain Your Dog

January 11, 2011 Bloggies

As the days become years, many chained dogs sit, lay, eat, and defecate within the same 10-foot radius. Chained by the neck, they exist without respect, love, exercise, social interaction, and sometimes even basic nourishment. They live as prisoners, yet long to be pets.

Chaining is not only inhumane for dogs, but has taken a severe toll on this nation’s children as well. In the period from October 2003 through today, there were at least 325 children killed or seriously injured by chained dogs across the country. Chained dogs, unsocialized with humans, can become very territorial of their tiny space, and any child who wanders into this space can be attacked and killed before adults can intervene.

Would you for one second choose to live the life of these dogs? No matter what reason is given, the bottom line is that it is NOT ok to chain a dog for life. Dogs should not have to live chained or penned as prisoners, yearning for a place in a family, craving acknowledgement, respect, and love. They DESERVE BETTER, and we as caretakers have the obligation to provide it for them.

Please consider today how you can help the dogs in your neighborhood. If you see a chained dog or a penned dog daily, it is time to take action. Take a stand when you see dogs living chained or penned. Speak gently to the caretakers, sharing your convictions and information about ways they can improve life for their companion. Start changing the way you and your community think about the chaining of dogs today. Take a stand and make life right for all dogs everywhere!

STATE OF TEXAS Sec.A821.077.UNLAWFUL RESTRAINT OF DOG.
(a) An owner may not leave a dog outside and unattended by use of a restraint that unreasonably limits the dog’s movement: between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m.; within 500 feet of the premises of a school; or in the case of extreme weather conditions, including conditions in which: the actual or effective outdoor temperature is below 32 degrees Fahrenheit; a heat advisory has been issued by a local or state authority or jurisdiction; or a hurricane, tropical storm, or tornado warning has been issued for the jurisdiction by the National Weather Service.

Read the entire bill here:

http://www.unchainyourdog.org/news/Texas_State_Bill_HB01411F.pdf

Passed by the Austin City Council: June 7, 2007 - Ordinance Effective Date: October 1, 2007  - § 3-4-2 RESTRAINT REQUIREMENTS FOR DOGS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY.

(A) Except as provided in Subsection (B), a person may not restrain a dog with a chain or tether unless the person is holding the chain or tether.

(B) The prohibition of Subsection (A) does not apply to a temporary restraint:

(1) during a lawful animal event, veterinary treatment, grooming, training, or law enforcement activity; or

(2) that is required to protect the safety or welfare of a person or the dog, if the dog's owner or handler remains with the dog throughout the period of restraint.

(C) A person restraining a dog with a chain or tether shall attach the chain or tether to a properly fitting collar or harness worn by the dog. A person may not wrap a chain or tether directly around a dog’s neck. A person may not restrain a dog with a chain or tether that weighs more than 1/18 of the dog’s body weight. A chain or tether used to restrain a dog must, by design and placement, be unlikely to become entangled.

(D) A person may not restrain a dog in a manner that does not allow the dog to have access to necessary shelter and water.

(E) A person may not restrain a dog in a manner that allows the dog to move outside the person’s property.

(F) A person may not keep six or more dogs, other than puppies less than six months old, unless the dogs are kept in an enclosure that meets the requirements prescribed by Section 3-2-13 (Enclosure for Dogs).

San Marcos, Hays County, Texas

Sec. 6.011- Tethering dogs and other animals.

It shall be unlawful for any person to tie or tether a dog or other animal to a stationary object for a period of time or in a location so as to create an unhealthy situation for the animal or a potentially dangerous situation for a pedestrian as determined by the animal control officer. The terms "unhealthy situation" and "potentially dangerous situation" shall include, but not be limited to the following:

(1) To tether any animal in such a manner as to permit the animal access upon any public right-of-way;

(2) To tether any animal in such a manner as to cause the animal injury or pain or not to permit the animal to reach shelter, food or water or otherwise create an unsafe or unhealthy situation;

(3) To tether any animal in such as manner as to permit the animal to leave the owner's property;

(4) To tether any animal in an area that is not properly fenced so as to prevent any person or child from entering; the area occupied by said animal;

(5) To tether any animal in a manner whereby the animal is subject to harassment, stings or bites from outdoor insects, or attacks by other animals;

(6) To tether any animal with a tether that is shorter than the greater of ten feet or five times the length of the dog, as measured from the tip of the dog's nose to the base of the dog's tail;

(7) To tether any animal with a tether that is not equipped with swivel ends;

(8) To tether any animal in such a manner that does not prevent the animal from becoming entangled with any obstruction, from partially or totally jumping any fence, or from leaving part of its owner's property;

(9) To fail to remove waste from the tethered area on a daily basis;

(10) To tether any animal without using a properly fitted collar or harness;

(11) To use choke-type collars to tether any animal;

(12) To use a tether that weighs more than one-fifth of the animal's body weight; or

(13) To allow an animal to remain tethered during a severe weather event. A severe weather event includes conditions in which: (a) the actual or effective outdoor temperature is below 32 degrees Fahrenheit; (b) a heat advisory has been issued by local or state authority or jurisdiction; or (c) a hurricane, tropical storm or tornado warning has been issued for the jurisdiction by the National Weather Service.

The Center for Disease Control has said chained dogs are 2.8 times more likely to bite adults. Chained dogs are nearly 5 times more likely to bite children. The National Canine Research Council reports that almost 30% of all fatal dog attacks involve chained or penned dogs. The ASPCA reports 81% of fatal dog attacks involve dogs that are isolated.

American Veterinary Medical Association, May 15, 2003:

"Confine your dog in a fenced yard or dog run when it is not in the house. Never tether or chain your dog because this can contribute to aggressive behavior."

Chained dogs can become aggressive due to intense confinement and lack of socialization. They also feel trapped, unable to escape from noises or people or animals that frighten them.

Chained dogs typically lack adequate veterinary care, food, water, or shelter. They are rarely exercised or interact with their families. These dogs suffer from neglect. Even if they are not left without adequate care, they lead an unhappy, frustrating existence for such social animals. Dogs on chains suffer intense boredom, anxiety, even neuroses; their lives are very sad and lonely.

Dogs can choke to death when their chains became entangled with other objects, or develop infections and severe wounds when collars become embedded in their necks.

Getting your dog off the chain

Many dog owners have learned to solve the problems that caused them to tie their dogs outside in the first place. If you would like to provide your dog with an alternative to a rope or chain, consider these suggestions:

Install a fence if your property does not already have one. Or consider installing a large chain-link dog run. If you install a dog run, make sure it meets these minimum space requirements. Be sure to allow extra space for a doghouse.

If you have a fence and your dog can jump over it, install a 45-degree inward extension to the top of your existing fence. Many home improvement stores sell these extensions.

If your dog digs under the fence to escape your yard, bury chicken wire to a depth of one foot below where the fence meets the ground (be sure to bend in the sharp edges). Or place large rocks at the base of the fence.

If the two previous options don't work for your "escape artist," consider using a cable runner or electronic fencing. These options are not perfect, but they will give your dog more freedom. Be sure to use these options only if you also have a fence that protects your dog from people and other animals.

If your dog digs where you don't want him to (such as in a garden or flower bed), consider putting plastic garden fencing or a similar barrier around the area. Or provide your dog with his own sandbox. Bury toys in the sandbox and use positive reinforcement to teach your dog that it is okay to dig there.

Enroll your dog in an obedience class—especially if his behavior is the main reason you keep your dog outside. Spay or neuter your dog if you haven't already done so. A neutered dog is less likely to roam and more content to stay at home. These are safe procedures that have many health and behavioral benefits. Ask your veterinarian for more information.

Remember that behavior problems such as barking, chewing, and digging are often the result of a lack of stimulation. By providing your dog with proper toys, exercise, "people time," and positive reinforcement, you may alter undesirable behaviors and teach acceptable house manners. In addition, a dog that is inside the house is much more likely to deter an intruder than a dog chained in the yard.

Giving your dog proper shelter

In addition to safe confinement, dogs need adequate shelter from the elements. Dogs kept outside may be unintentionally exposed to bitter cold temperatures in the winter and scorching heat in the summer.

To protect your dog from harsh weather, provide a well-constructed doghouse. However, keep in mind that some breeds with very long or short coats cannot tolerate extreme outside temperatures even when provided with proper shelter.

Also remember that if you have more than one dog, you need to provide a doghouse for each one.

Make it comfy

To provide your dog with a comfortable doghouse, consider these suggestions:

The house should be large enough to allow the dog to stand up and turn around comfortably, but small enough to enable the dog to retain body heat.

The house should have a slanted, waterproof roof to allow rainwater to run off.

If the doghouse is made of wood, it should be raised off the ground at least two inches to prevent the floor from rotting.

The door should be just large enough for your dog to enter easily.

During the winter months, to protect your dog from cold wind, the door should be covered by a flexible plastic flap—such as a floor runner that doesn't have spikes on one side. A piece of carpet can work in a pinch, but it can get wet and freeze.

Clean, dry bedding such as hay, straw, or cedar shavings should be provided. The bedding should be changed weekly to prevent mold and to keep the doghouse sanitary.

In warmer months, the dog should also be provided with shade such as a tree or tarp. A doghouse in direct sun becomes an oven and will not keep a dog cool.

Finally, anytime your dog is kept outside, be sure to provide fresh water in a tip-proof bowl or large bucket. Make sure the water doesn't freeze during colder months.

Stop that leash-pulling!

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Stop that leash-pulling!

January 08, 2011 Bloggies

Katya’s Training Tip: Stop that leash-pulling!
By Katya Friedman, certified trainer and Adopt-a-Pet.com team member

Are your dogs dragging you and your volunteers along on your walks? Want to tame that tugging to make them more appealing to adopters? Here's an exercise you can try if you've got a puller on your hands!

First, remember that dogs pull because they want to move forward. When they pull us and move us forward, it works! So why wouldn't they try again? Holding your leash with your hand planted firmly behind your back is recommended. This way, when your dog pulls he won’t get to move an extra two feet from your arm outstretching - if your hand is behind your back holding the leash, the leash stays the same length and can't be stretched. Then with the leash behind your back, play the Red Light/Green Light game on walks with your rescue dog!  When your dog pulls, you stop and plant your feet – don’t move! Once he realizes that he is not moving forward, no matter how hard he pulls, he’ll back up or look at you or sit or perform some other action that causes the leash to loosen. Once the leash loosens up, praise him, and move forward. This will teach your dog that pulling does not work and that he only moves forward when his leash is nice and loose.

The trick of this exercise is that it's a patience game for us, so if you want your pooch to stop pulling, be consistent with this practice and do the "red light" every time he pulls. Gradually over time you will increase the distance your rescue pooch can travel without pulling...this is a great way to get your dogs ready for adoption and a happy forever home!  The trick is timing with reward when dog returns or releases pressure.

What Makes A Dog Chase

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What Makes A Dog Chase

January 08, 2011 Bloggies

Does your dog spring into action the moment any creature moves? Chasing neighborhood animals may be dangerous for your dog. After all, a dog after prey doesn't see or hear anything but the intended victim, and neither traffic nor your frantic calls will be heeded. However, this aggressive behavior is also dangerous for the subject of the dog's predatory attention - whether that is genuine prey, a jogger, skateboarder, cyclist, automobile, person on a bicycle, or running children. Remember, you are responsible for your dog's behavior.

Dogs of any sex and any age may exhibit predatory behavior. The behavior does not reflect a psychological problem, nor is your pooch vicious, malicious or vindictive. It is a natural survival-related behavior – hunting and killing was a way of life for dogs' ancestors and the means for their survival.

All dogs have some level of prey drive - the motivation to chase, catch, and kill small furry or feathered creatures. Many natural behaviors of dogs, however, have been modified by selective breeding practices and the prey drive varies among breed groups and even among breeds. In fact, at least 4 of 7 whole breed groups of dogs recognized by the American Kennel Club (sporting, herding, hounds, and terriers) have been bred for enhanced prey drive and thus increased potential to pursue and kill prey.

The entire predatory sequence involves searching, stalking, chasing, catching, biting, killing and finally ingestion (eating). Some dogs have been selectively bred for aspects of this prey drive sequence. Hounds have been bred for the searching/tracking. Herding and sporting dogs have been bred for chasing, catching, or retrieving but have been bred for inhibition of the ultimate stage - biting and killing. Terriers have been bred for their varmint chasing and killing - the whole predatory gamut.

One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that it is always triggered by movement. In the wild, movement is in the form of running and escape attempts by small critters that the dog has honed in on as prey. In the domestic situation, joggers or running children frequently awaken the dog's dormant predatory instincts. The results of such cases of mistaken identity can range from annoying to life threatening.

Dogs in prey mode don't display any significant mood change or threatening gestures because either would be counter-productive to the objective – to catch and kill the prey. The absence of warning signs, plus the fact that killing is the natural end point for the behavior, makes it very dangerous. Dogs may slink up on their prey intent and focused, and when they are within range, may launch an attack, running towards the target and either nipping at heels or biting and hanging on in an attempt to drag the subject down. Sometimes other dogs will be drawn in to the attack displaying packing behavior or group aggression. When the subject is a young child who is attempting to run away, the results can be disastrous.

Behavior Modification

If your dog preys on people or small pets, the prognosis for complete retraining is not good. A dog that stares with unwavering focus when he sees movement, or paws at the window with excitement when he sees a squirrel in the back yard, would certainly be one to watch within the presence of a group of fast-running children. If your dog has a high prey drive, it is your responsibility to make sure that your dog is never given the opportunity to act out his tendencies. You will be liable for any damage caused if your dog gets loose.

Remember: Predatory behavior is not malicious or vindictive; it is biologically driven and natural, albeit socially unacceptable and downright dangerous in human society. Whether it is the neighbor's rabbit or cat, a jogger, or a small child running through a field, your dog will always have the potential to display predatory behavior under certain circumstances – he cannot help it – and it is your responsibility to realize this.

The fact that predatory behavior is driven by natural forces makes treatment difficult. Also, it is intrinsically rewarding and therefore difficult to suppress no matter what you do. If your dog has a high prey drive, keep him restrained. Continuous outdoor supervision with the dog under control is essential. This includes a fenced-in yard, leash-walking, and keeping him in the back yard and away from neighborhood activity. Never confine your dog in an area that another animal or child could enter.

Trying to train the predatory behavior out of a dog is like swimming upstream. You might make some progress if you work hard for a while, but you will be back to square one the moment you stop. It is better to simply acknowledge that predatory behavior is part of dogs' genetic nature, channel it appropriately, and take steps to avoid unfortunate accidents. While predatory behavior spin-off can be entertaining, in the form of ball chasing, or amusing, when toy dogs' predatory ambitions exceed their capabilities, it is far from entertaining or amusing in larger dogs when directed toward people. The moral of this story is know your dog, recognize predatory behavior for what it is, and take whatever steps are necessary to prevent unfortunate accidents.

How To Approach an Injured Dog Safely

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How To Approach an Injured Dog Safely

January 06, 2011 Bloggies

If you encounter a dog in need or injured in some way, your first reaction may be to run to help. That's a common reaction – most people don't want to see an animal in pain. But without taking the proper precautions, you could get injured. And being injured along with the animal won't help the situation.

It is important to remember that even the sweetest dog may bite if they are frightened or in pain. Here are some guidelines for approaching an injured pet.

Assess the Situation

Use common sense: Remember that your safety comes first.

If the animal is in the middle of the road, watch for traffic before going to assist.

If there is a house fire, do not enter the house until the fire department has eliminated the danger – very likely firefighters will rescue the pet.

If your pet is covered in a toxic substance, do not touch the animal unless you are wearing protective gloves or can cover him with plastic (or some other protective material).

If your pet is covered in blood, do not touch the animal without protective gloves. Even though there are few diseases you can get from animal blood, there is no guarantee that human blood is not mixed in from someone else. That person's blood may have spilled onto the animal, and with the threat of HIV, hepatitis or other illnesses, exposure to any blood is not recommended.

Determine if the Dog is Aggressive

If the animal shows signs of fear or aggression, muzzling him is essential before helping. Read below on how to muzzle a dog.  As you approach the animal, pay attention to his body language and any sounds he is making. Use a soft, gentle, calming voice. Avoid direct eye contact with an injured pet since some will perceive this as a confrontation or threat. A wagging tail is irrelevant. Some dogs will wag their tails throughout an attack.

Here are some body language signals to look out for:

Growling -  Snarling with teeth exposed

Hair along back standing on end

Ears straight back and flat against head

Tail tucked between legs

Lunging toward you with snapping jaws

Intense staring

Submissive behavior such as lying on ground with belly exposed (these dogs can quickly become fear-biters)

Remember, keeping yourself safe and uninjured is just as important as helping the injured animal. You cannot be much help if you also need medical assistance.

If the animal you are trying to help is aggressive and there is a risk that you may get injured, do not try to administer treatment. Call a local veterinary clinic, animal control officer or sheriff's department.

Try to stay nearby to watch where the animal goes and to assist when help arrives. If necessary, direct traffic away from the injured animal until further help arrives.

 HOW TO MUZZLE A DOG.

Use nylon pantyhose or a long strip of material.

Place the strip of material on top of the dog's nose.

Loop the material under the dog's chin and tie it into a single knot.

Bring the ends of the material back behind the dog's ears, and tie into a knot or bow.

Avoid tying the knot too tightly.

Use a muzzle only for a few minutes at a time; never leave it on for an extended period.

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